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Subject: Icom W2A Mods

>crisp
>

>>I have gotten a very large and much appreciated response for the mods I

>>requested. Many thanks to all that responded.

>

>I have recently got an IC-W2E, and I'd also appreciate

>those mods, or even hints, where to look them for..

>

>Thanks



Here is a collection of the mods. Enjoy folks, and thanks for the help!









For crossband repeat, just set up each band with the mode which

you want to use, and then hit 2 ENTER - To cancel

hit 2 ENTER again.



-fred

--

| Fred Lloyd  AA7BQ



________________





This is less of a mod than it is a function. To expand the receiver

frequency range of the new Icom IC-W2A to 118.00-170.00, 322.00-513.00,

and 800.000-970.000, do the following:



o  Hold down the Light, B, and # keys while turning the power on.



That's actually a four button sequence, since power on is controlled

by a keypad button.



--

73, Paul  

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________________







Modification Instructions for the IC-W2A Handheld



Two mods, one for Cross Band Repeat and one for extended TX range







Cross Band Repeat Function



To access the cross-band repeat function, first perform the extended

receive mod by holding down the Light/B/# keys while turning on the

power.



To enable cross-band repeat, set each band to the frequency and mode

desired.  Set the current band to VHF.



Press (Function-2) (Function-Enter) and the little "L" indicator will

flash.  The radio is now in the cross-band repeat mode.  Do disable,

press (Function-Enter) again.







Extended Transmit Mod





Call the ICOM parts department ((206) 454-8155) and order a pair of

MA133 diodes (P/N 1790000850).  These are the three terminal surface

mount diode packages.  It is probably not advisable to substitute

conventional leaded glass diodes here due to size restraints.



The modification involves removing one surface mount component and

installing two others.  The working parts are extremely small and the

mod should not be performed unless you are comfortable with working

while using a loop eyepiece or other magnifying device.  This is a

"surgical" operation.  Take all the usual precautions with respect to

static electricity, etc.



Remove 5 screws holding back on, and two screws on side of case below

the PTT switch.  Gently pry the unit apart.



Inside the unit are two RF "stack" units.  The complete RF "stack" is

composed of two enclosed sheet metal boxes sandwiched together, about

1.5" wide, 2" tall and .5" thick.  Each RF stack unit (one per band) is

totally self contained, is about .25" thick, and plugs into the

"motherboard" using connectors mounted on one end.



First, remove the stack units.  To do this, remove one screw from each

side of the stack.  Remove the single screw off the bottom end of the

stack and gently remove the metal spring clip holding the stack

together.



Carefully lift each stack unit out by pulling it back and down.  They

should easily unplug from the upper motherboard.  Set them aside for

now.



At this time the back side of the front panel is clearly accessible and

the two CPU's are visible side-by-side across the top.  Now refer to

the following illustration:





      Top of Radio, Back side of Front Panel

_____________________________________________________

                                                     |

            --------              --------           |

           |        |            |        |          |---

           | CPU-1  |            | CPU-2  |          |   |

           |        |            |        |          | P |

            --------              --------           | T |

                                                     | T |

              --------                               |   |

              --------                               |---

                       .<:<-D1        ----------    |

                               ..     | |fuse  | |   |

                          D2->  V      ----------    |

                                    ..               |

                               D3->  V               |

                                            ..       |

                                             V <-D?  |

                                                     |





D1, D2 and D3 are locations on the board.  Only D2 is installed

at the factory.  To perform the mod, you must do the following:



      Remove  D2

      Install D1

      Install D3



The locations of D1 and D3 are clearly silk screened onto the circuit

board and are easy to locate.  Don't attempt to re-use D2.  The periods

(..) show the approximate location of the solder pads for the 2-legged

sides of the diodes.



Diode D2 may be removed by carefully heating the leads and prying it up

using a sharp tool.  Be very careful since it's easy to lift the solder

pads.



One method of installing diodes D1 and D3 is to use a very small drop

of super glue to mount the part, and then use a soldering iron to tack

down the pins.



After the parts are installed, reassemble the radio.  Although the

manufacturer recommends that the microprocessor be reset after this

mod, I have found it to be unnecessary.  All memories retained their

settings after the mod.  Tests using a dummy load and a frequency

counter showed TX ability on UHF from under 400MHz to over 490MHz.

TX on VHF covers from 136MHz to 174MHz.



-fred  AA7BQ



--

| Fred Lloyd  AA7BQ



________________





Now for the added part -  multi-digit entry for mhz



After doing the above,  REQUIRED!!



select the VHF band as MAIN

push F (above the PTT button) and SET (the 8 button)

then using the ^/SCAN button make the lower right symbol of the band say PL

rotate the right knob to set the display to 1,10, or 100 as desired

1sets entry to single digits only

10sets entry to 10's and single digits

100sets entry to all digits



hit PTT



Now - repeat the above for the UHF band - Note It WILL NOT work unless you do it for BOTH bands.



You now have a walkie that requires all the digits (assuming you chose 100) to program it's frequencies.



/s/Bob Gettys N1BRM





________________





Rupert,



Here is more info on the the performance of the W2A after the mod.



John. N0LHW









        Well folks I have had my IC-W2A for one week now & am,needless to say

suitably impressed. But now my comments...

        Why did Icom have to change the DC input socket to what the W2A has.

It is very unusual & as far as I can find out, Icom are the only people who

can supply a plug for it. I think they should have stayed with the more common

2.1mm DC jack as per the IC-32AT.

        I did some checks of the receivers using an IFR 500A signal generator

& the following is what signal level I needed to get 1 "S" point on the W2A's

S meters.

        At 70mhz, 1mV  (milli-volts)

           80mhz  0.5mV

           90mhz  0.25mV

          100mhz  75uV  (micro-volts)

          110mhz  1.5uV

          From here to 170mhz less than 0.2uV

          173mhz  1.5uV

          174mhz  75uV

          200mhz  75uV

          250mhz  0.5mV  (whats going on here???)

          275mhz  4uV

          300mhz  1.5uV

          320mhz  5uV         (changed to UHF main VFO from here on)

          400 - 450mhz less than 0.35uV

          460mhz  0.75uV

          465 - 510mhz less than 1uV

          520 - 690mhz less than 2uV

          700 - 999mhz  varies from 7.5uV to 2uV, dips to 0.35uV at 900mhz.



        Quite impressive, but I would really like to get better sensitivity

at the 70 - 80mhz end. Studying the circuit diagram shows bandpass/bandstop

filters all over the show, so maybe its possible to modify a few to increase

sensitivity here.

        I am gathering together the ciruits of the Icom IC-R1, IC-24AT &

W2A to compare the front ends so we will see what comes of this experiment

in the near future.

        One other worry was the on/off switch, how do you turn the set off

when the battery is flat. I am concerned about running the battery to zero

volts, hopefully this does not occur. I have been disconnecting the battery

when charging to prevent anything funny happening.

        The antenna supplied with my W2A is an FA-1443BB, whats the difference

between this & the FA-1443B, & the FA-4B supplied with an IC-R1.

        One more gripe, I dont like the plastic plug/covers over the DC jack,

headphone, external speaker sockets, they should have been rubber as per the

IC-32AT, as I can see already that they will not last very long after prolonged

use. Boy what a moaner, you say, small complaints but this would really have

made it the best. I wonder what Yaesu & Kenwood are going to do to compete

with this???



Cheers  



      C. Tetenburg (ZL1BQJ)                 Internet:charlie
      Network Controller

      Ministry of Forestry Computer Centre

      Forest Research Institute

      Sala St.

      Rotorua

      New Zealand              





>From daemon Mon Jul 15 23:39:24 1991

Received:by violet.berkeley.edu (5.61/1.32)

id AA03693; Mon, 15 Jul 91 14:39:02 PDT

Date: Mon, 15 Jul 91 14:39:02 PDT

From: admitq
Message-ID: <9107152139.AA03693
To: info-admin
#Subject: Re:Request:rig; Topic:icom_ic_w2

Status:OR



Thanks For The IC W2A Mods.

The extended receive that HRO Oakland gave me differs slightly

from the posted version...my display (sensitivity is another

matter) indicated RX from DC to somewhere just below IR after:

turn off

simultaneously press-funct-3-B-# keys

turn on





(end of mod)

It has been pointed out that only the funct is different from

previously posted version, but I wonder.  I get the feeling that

there are many more hidden tricks to this rig that only ICOM

knows about.  I'd really be curious about any kind of data transfer/

cloning capabilities it may have, etc.

-73 de Michael Dahl

KC6UFR

e-mail:admitq




A couple of weeks ago I posted an inquiry about bad transmit audio in a

IC-W2 handheld. I would like to thank everybody who sent in their response.



Some said their radios work well, one said his doesn't and one told Icom

America had repaired similar symptoms in his friend's radio. A later

comparison with a healthy unit confirmed that the fault wasn't between

the operator's ears...:-)



However, Jukka, OH2BUA, a good friend of mine happened to work me with his

brand new IC-2SRE. He had audio characteristics astonishingly similar to

my radio. As a result to my complaints he opened his radio and cured the

problem. Last Monday I did the same job and here it comes:





---------------------------- W A R N I N G -------------------------------



Servicing your radio by yourself may void the warranty. The author takes

no responsibility whatsoever of the possible hassles with warranty codes

intended for technically non-experienced radio users.



If you are not a qualified radio service technician on if you are not

accustomed to work with extremely miniature surface-mount components,

return your radio to the dealer with the following instructions.



---------------------------- W A R N I N G --------------------------------



Radio:IC-W2A/E, IC-2SRA/E, IC-4SRA/E



Trouble:Weak transmit audio, deviation below the specifications, high end

of the speech spectrum missing.



Tools needed:A good soldering iron with a sharp tip, desoldering braid,

solder, sharp-nosed pliers, small cross-point screwdrivers.



Cure:



1. Open the radio case following the instructions in the owner's manual

(p. 45).



2. In radios fitted with the UT-63 board, pull out the board.



3. Unscrew the two small screws holding the tin plate against the bottom

ends of the band modules. Pull out the plate.



4. Pull out the band modules.



5. Now you see the microfone fitted to the mother board. It should fit

neatly against the inside of the fascia panel. If it doesn't, carry on.



6. Unsolder the microphone leads from the mother board. BE CAREFUL not

to overheat the board and the wire insulation.



7. Pull out the microphone and the rubber gasket.



8. Re-install the gasket. Pull in the microphone so that it fits inside

the gasket well and press it firmly to the end.



9. Re-solder the mic wires.



10. Install the band modules, the tin plate and don't forget the screws.



11. Replace the rear panel.



12. Tighten the 7 screws.



13. Test the audio response.





© OH2BUA and OH3BK, 1991. Unlimited reproduction allowed.





--

     Richard Crisp              crisp
 MIPS Computer Systems        !decwrl!mips!crisp

  928 Arques MS 5-07            (408) 524-7250

  Sunnyvale, Ca 94086                          




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